Grace and I spent Monday afternoon and most of today in London, visiting a relative and babysitting her new baby. We're back in Cambridge now, where the place is still a bit of a mess.
We took the train down yesterday, the first time for me, although Grace is getting pretty experienced. The ride down was really nice - fast, comfortable and we had nice views of the manicured English countryside. When we arrived in King's Cross station we took the tube down to Westminster, and we walked to the flat from there. I had heard that the English tube system was the most complicated in the world, but we didn't have any trouble. New York still seems worse, with it's numbered cars that follow different routes.
That afternoon we went over to the Natural History Museum, which we had heard was really good. My favorite museum in Washington was the Smithsonian Natural History museum and I was interested to see how this museum stacked up. The building itself was really interesting - dark, gothic and detailed. But I think Grace and I are tired of museums, as they were one of the great free attractions in Washington. We found ourselves walking quickly through the exhibits.
That night we had babysitting duty and when we were done we went to a regular English pub (butcher block tables, wooden chairs, red carpet, ales on tap). I can tell things are going to get pretty quiet for the next few months. Classes are over and people are heading home. We're looking forward to my family's visit in three weeks.
The next day, we decided to avoid museums until the afternoon, when we had a plan to combine babysitting and visiting a museum. We went to go see the famous changing of the guard at Buckingham palace. We were a bit bewildered by it.
To set the scene, Buckingham palace is a large, nice, grey building. There are flourishes on it, but it doesn't have domes or gargoyles or bright colours. At least, not any that I remember, though I couldn't see it very well, because a very tall black iron fence keeps everyone about 100 feet back. And there's no lawn in the front, just pavement. Outside this gate is where the tourists mill about. There's a large open space, with a tall monument, but really everyone tries to crush up against the gate, to get a good look at the guards and the palace. But there isn't enough room for everyone to see, so there's a lot of straining to see over people. And beyond the wide open space is a busy road with fast moving cars.
When we arrived, it started raining and the rain quickly turned into a downpour. Probably a third of the tourists there had no rain gear at all and got soaked. Grace and I would have been among them if our relative hadn't given us both her umbrellas right before we left. There was no shelter to be had in front of the Palace and people put their jackets over their heads, but, they got soaked.
Something was happening though. Two ornate horsedrawn carriages preceding a fancy black car came through. The carriage drivers were dressed in traditional uniform. And we could hear drums in the distance. And traffic was stopped by the bright yellow vested police, who were getting soaked. And on the other side of the gate sixteen or so grey vested guards emerged with their M-16s. Their corporal, or captain, or something, yelled at them, checked their weapons and so on. Then the drums became louder and a military band, also in grey vests, came parading in, and then out a side street. When we turned back, the sixteen guards were marching somewhere and the police started to let traffic through. People started milling about and it became clear that whatever had happened, was now over. And a few minutes after that the rain cleared up.
From there we walked to Harrods, a massive, expensive store. They're having a "Christmas Royale" theme for Christmas. Grace and I spent most of our time in "Christmas World" looking through the hundred upon hundreds of Christmas ornaments.
The store reminds me of a more expensive, more upscale, more confusing version of Marshall Fields, the great 8 story Chicago department store. There are no grand vistas here (like the center of Marshall fields where you can look up or down through all the floors) - just room after room of upscale consumer goods.
On the way back I thought we should try to cut straight across the city to the flat, but it turned out there really wasn't a straight way to go. We were late getting back, but we saw some more regular parts of London. There was a worker with a fire tool melting and scraping paint off a fence and a bunch of really nice small shops. The walk home was sort of like Harrods in that we could never see very far ahead before the street curved off in a new direction.
That afternoon we walked to Trafalgar square and the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery. Both were great Art museums, but we were still a little tired of museums. The walk back, at 4:45, was pitch black with the early nightfall. Shortly after we got back we were packed up and heading back to the train station.
The ride home was really crowded, and we had to stand part of the way. Once back in Cambridge, we found our bikes had
not been stolen and we had a long, nice ride home.